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SAMUEL ADAMS OCTOBER FEST
Samuel Adams Brewing Company, Portland, Oregon

by Markian Gooley

Procrastination will kill me. I write this review on Halloween.

For once, Jim Koch and his cronies have produced a beer that approximates what its name leads one to expect. It's been several years since I've had a beer in the genuine Oktoberfest style, but unless alcohol and age have made my memory as flabby as my belly, Samuel Adams October Fest is more or less in the right style, and a good drink.

What's wanted is a strong beer with a definite taste of alcohol, malty, and not too heavy on the bittering hops -- or so I recall. October Fest -- and for once, what commendable modesty Koch and crew show by anglicizing the name -- gets these right. There's enough malt to make one's lips a bit sticky, a balancing bitterness that seems to derive as much from a measure of dark-roasted malt as from hops, and alcohol that's clearly present but not overwhelming. The hops provide flavor and aroma more than bitterness, arguably a bit much for the style, but these aren't immoderate. The rich brown-ale color is appealing and more or less authentic. I taste a hint of sourness -- not as much as in Guinness -- but that doesn't bother me.

I couldn't spot any obvious lies on the label. Perhaps the litigious Mr. Koch imagines that other people think the way he does and fears lawsuits, or perhaps he's just grown tired of telling whoppers. This is a beer worth buying if despite my dilatory habits it's still on the shelves when you read this review.

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